Fishing from a sustainable pool
Since the wild catch of fish has reached its ceiling, expanding aquaculture is the only way to meet future fish demand. In 2030, according to FAO, aquaculture will dominate fish supplies. By then, less than half of the fish consumed is likely to originate from capture fisheries. To meet this challenge, aquaculture will have to expand in terms of species cultured and technologies used. Fish farming systems must become more eco-efficient, providing consumers with healthy, abundant and affordable seafood products with minimal impact on the environment.
Red list Fish is gaining popularity in western countries. Health and convenience aspects are main reasons for this, but year-round fresh supply and attractive pricing also play a role. In the
fish is a point of discussion. Scientists have calculated that in order to produce
The International Fishmeal and Fish Oil Organisation (IFFO) is troubled about the current discussion around the conversion factor for wild fish into farmed fish. At the Norwegian conference ‘Aquavision
Algae reactors are more than a nutrient plant. They are also a key technology when integrating fish farming and waste management in a closed loop system. Phytoplankton enable farmers to use and treat wastewater at the same time. In an ideal situation algae feed on the waste products of the fishery, create an optimal oxygen/carbon dioxide ratio and are eaten and converted into fish protein at the same time. For reasons of synergy this typically works well when applied to mixed aquaculture systems. These contain different compartments for algae, fish species like tilapia, shellfish and shrimps with different nutrition needs and waste regimes. Although this certainly is a more eco-friendly way to produce seafood, the high costs are an obstacle. Nevertheless, several mixed aquaculture systems have been put in place in Europe and the
Gene technology Another research path is the chemical extraction and/or conversion of certain components to basic fish nutrients from staple crops like flax seed or soya. Flax seed is a rich source of omega 3 fatty acids. This is also true for canola oil (rapeseed oil) that contains both omega-6 and 3- fatty acids and can be converted to ‘fish oil’. Methionine – an essential amino acid in the fish diet – can be isolated from soya.
A completely different approach is genetic engineering of fish. This option has great potential from a technological point of view but may face consumer scepticism and evoke food scare reactions, especially in Europe. Using biotechnology, fish genes can be modified in such a way that engineered broodstock becomes more productive than the traditional kind. A frontrunner in this field is biotechnology company Aqua Bounty that is developing hybrid salmon, trout, and tilapia species. The company’s AquAdvantage salmon reach market size twice as fast and convert feed into body mass 10 to 30 per cent more efficiently than normal. According to Aqua Bounty, farmers achieve a reduced growing cycle and better feed efficiency. Moreover, as salmon grow better and faster, they release fewer waste products into the environment. The fish are neutered to avoid interbreeding with native populations, a major concern in salmon farming. The company is still waiting for the ‘go-ahead’ from the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Last year Aqua Bounty successfully passed a first hurdle, when the FDA approved the molecular studies about the characterisation of the gene construct that involves a specific salmon and eel DNA. It is not clear when the AquAdvantage salmon will be commercialised. A launch is expected in 2009 at earliest. 
Certification While a sustainable seafood chain is still a thing of the future, the sustainable seafood movement is gathering momentum. In 2005, the Seafood Choices Alliance study, produced in partnership with Greenpeace, the Marine Conservation Society (MCS, see below), WWF and North Sea Foundation, polled consumers, supermarkets, chefs and restaurateurs about their views on the issue. A massive 86 per cent of consumers said that they would prefer to buy seafood labelled as environmentally friendly, with a similar response from industry professionals. Also in America awareness is growing about the world’s dwindling fish supplies. There are no soothing words for FAO’s conclusion that 70 per cent of fisheries are being fished at or beyond their sustainable capacity. Moreover, the adverse effects of aquaculture have made the headlines of American newspapers. In this way more and more consumers become aware of the message from NGOs to abstain from so-called ‘red-listed’ varieties. They avoid types like salmon or merlin and select less vulnerable or ‘green-listed’ ones. Nevertheless, sustainable fish is currently a niche and often sold at a higher price. However, there are indications that the current niche will soon become mainstream. A signal is the growing number of food retailers that have recently taken steps to offer their clientele a green alternative in fish. Wal-Mart is one of them. The retailer giant threw its weight behind sustainable seafood in February. The company announced it would eventually stock its North American stores with wild-caught fresh and frozen fish from fisheries certified by the Marine Stewardship Council (MCS), the Britain-based organisation that addresses overfishing by setting standards for fisheries. However, at this moment MCS-certified fish is scarce. Illustrative is the fact that Unilever is facing difficulties to achieve its goals to source sustainable fish only. Reason for the low supply is that until now only small and closely managed fisheries are certified by the MSC. In order to meet future demand for sustainable fish, large fisheries also need to become involved in the certification procedure. Possibly Wal-Marts ambitions will speed up this decision.
Sustainable league British supermarkets are also tackling the issue of sourcing sustainable fish. Last March the Marine Conservation Society (MCS) published the latest ‘Sustainable Supermarket League Table’ (see box or for more details www.fishonline.org) as part of its continuing consumer awareness campaign. Waitrose and Marks & Spencer are placed jointly at the top. According to MCS, both companies are strongly committed to sustainability and have a reputation for only selling fish from responsibly managed fisheries. Tesco and Sainsbury’s are placed third and fourth, respectively. Of all British supermarkets M&S, Waitrose and Morrisons sell no fish at all from the MCS List of Fish to Avoid. Although UK food retailers are making progress, the MCS thinks there is still a lot to improve. One area is the labelling of fish products. Labels should provide consumers with more information about the seafood’s scientific name, specific area of origin, method of capture and, for example, carry an eco qualification.
Meeting these standards will not always be easy but disregarding them is certainly not in the benefit of food retailers. Especially when it comes to fish, choosing for sustainability is a smart business decision. If overfishing continues and aquaculture gets out of hand, the fishing departments with their attractive margins will one day be out of business. Therefore smart food retailers are now taking the lead towards a more sustainable seafood chain.
| US |
| 1973: 3,400 |
| 2003: 6,200 |
| 1973: 6,800 |
| 2003: 10,000 |
Source: MCS Supermarket League Table 2007
Sustainable fish scores at
| 1. Marks & Spencer, Waitrose |
| 3. Tesco |
| 4. Sainsbury’s |
| 5. ASDA |
| 6. Morrisons |
| 7. Co-Op |
| 8. Iceland |
Source: AquaVision Conference 2006


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