Fishing from a sustainable pool

Fishing from a sustainable pool

Sustainability is vital when it comes to the future of both farmed and wild-caught fish. The image of capture fisheries is at stake due to overfishing, while aquaculture is suffering from reputational damage because of greed for fish meal and fish oil and environmental damage. Several retailers are not just sitting back and waiting and have started programmes to offer their customers a growing variety of sustainable fish products.
Elsevier Food Internbational, Vol. 10, Number 3, September 2007

Since the wild catch of fish has reached its ceiling, expanding aquaculture is the only way to meet future fish demand. In 2030, according to FAO, aquaculture will dominate fish supplies. By then, less than half of the fish consumed is likely to originate from capture fisheries. To meet this challenge, aquaculture will have to expand in terms of species cultured and technologies used. Fish farming systems must become more eco-efficient, providing consumers with healthy, abundant and affordable seafood products with minimal impact on the environment.  

 Red list    Fish is gaining popularity in western countries. Health and convenience aspects are main reasons for this, but year-round fresh supply and attractive pricing also play a role. In the UK for instance, the retail seafood market has shown yearly growth rates of approximately five per cent over the last four years. However, negative publicity has to some extent dented the image. For instance, overfishing has created negative publicity around popular carnivorous fish species. Tuna and cod, but also chunky fish like swordfish, have been put on a red list. Biologists now regard several tuna (sub)species such as the Bluefin as endangered and consumption is discouraged. However, the traffic light is also on red for several aquaculture species. Farmed salmon for instance is increasingly associated with water pollution, damage to coastal habitats, threats to wild salmon stocks by escapes and chemical use – even though input of antibiotics and disinfectants in Norwegian ocean salmon farming has been significantly reduced through improved farming practices. According to Fiskekum, the export organisation for Norwegian fish, the use of antibiotics dropped by a factor of 50 between 1987 and 2002. This figure is even more impressive when taken into consideration that the salmon production capacity during this period rose from 33,000 to 460,000 tonnes! Less positive is the situation in the South-East Asia region where tropical prawn aquaculture is threatening mangrove forests because of deforestation. Poor farming practices in some regions have turned wetlands into chemical wastelands with serious consequences for the local population.

 Substitutes    Apart from the environmental impact of aquaculture, the conversion rate from wild fish into farmed fish is a point of discussion. Scientists have calculated that in order to produce 1 kg of Norwegian salmon, approximately 2.7 kg of feed fish is needed. Although many freshwater species show better conversion ratios – some can live on a vegetarian diet - top predators like farmed cod are even greedier than salmon. The capture of low-value fish for the production of fish meal and heart-healthy oil deprives wild living species of their daily bread. According to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) aquaculture currently uses up to 50 per cent of all fish meal and 80 per cent of all fish oil in the world. Already a third of wild fish are converted to meal and oil.

The International Fishmeal and Fish Oil Organisation (IFFO) is troubled about the current discussion around the conversion factor for wild fish into farmed fish. At the Norwegian conference ‘Aquavision 2006’, director general Jonathan Shepperd stated that IFFO and its members are committed to the sustainable development of the fish meal and oil industry. IFFO expects that once the supply chain tightens, price increases will drive the search for replacements. One alternative to meet the protein requirement is to replace fish meal partially by land animal and plant sources. Plant oils in turn may for a part substitute precious fish oil. Here the challenge is to retain the valuable omega 3 oils in the final product. A lot of research is being conducted into finding substitutes. At the laboratories of feed producer Nutreco for instance 40 per cent of R&D is aimed at replacing fish meal and fish oil with fish free alternatives.

 Plankton farming    A promising replacement is the production of phytoplankton, better known as algae, that are grown in bioreactors near the fishery. Experiments have shown that these unicellular organisms, that contain essential fatty acids for the development of a fishy taste, can be fed to fish in their early life cycle. For some (sub)tropical, omnivorous fish species like tilapia and silver carp, phytoplankton may serve as a complete nutrition source. But algae can also be applied to breed, for example, brine shrimps – part of the menu of carnivorous fishes – and many other zooplankton species. This wide group of tiny organisms that drift in the waters of oceans, seas and freshwater reservoirs, are at the bottom of the seafood chain.

Algae reactors are more than a nutrient plant. They are also a key technology when integrating fish farming and waste management in a closed loop system. Phytoplankton enable farmers to use and treat wastewater at the same time. In an ideal situation algae feed on the waste products of the fishery, create an optimal oxygen/carbon dioxide ratio and are eaten and converted into fish protein at the same time. For reasons of synergy this typically works well when applied to mixed aquaculture systems. These contain different compartments for algae, fish species like tilapia, shellfish and shrimps with different nutrition needs and waste regimes. Although this certainly is a more eco-friendly way to produce seafood, the high costs are an obstacle. Nevertheless, several mixed aquaculture systems have been put in place in Europe and the US. Operations will become more economical in the next years, because the prices of fish meal and fish oil will continue to rise.

Gene technology    Another research path is the chemical extraction and/or conversion of certain components to basic fish nutrients from staple crops like flax seed or soya. Flax seed is a rich source of omega 3 fatty acids. This is also true for canola oil (rapeseed oil) that contains both omega-6 and 3- fatty acids and can be converted to ‘fish oil’. Methionine – an essential amino acid in the fish diet – can be isolated from soya.
A completely different approach is genetic engineering of fish. This option has great potential from a technological point of view but may face consumer scepticism and evoke food scare reactions, especially in Europe. Using biotechnology, fish genes can be modified in such a way that engineered broodstock becomes more productive than the traditional kind. A frontrunner in this field is biotechnology company Aqua Bounty that is developing hybrid salmon, trout, and tilapia species. The company’s AquAdvantage salmon reach market size twice as fast and convert feed into body mass 10 to 30 per cent more efficiently than normal. According to Aqua Bounty, farmers achieve a reduced growing cycle and better feed efficiency. Moreover, as salmon grow better and faster, they release fewer waste products into the environment. The fish are neutered to avoid interbreeding with native populations, a major concern in salmon farming. The company is still waiting for the ‘go-ahead’ from the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Last year Aqua Bounty successfully passed a first hurdle, when the FDA approved the molecular studies about the characterisation of the gene construct that involves a specific salmon and eel DNA. It is not clear when the AquAdvantage salmon will be commercialised. A launch is expected in 2009 at earliest.

Certification    While a sustainable seafood chain is still a thing of the future, the sustainable seafood movement is gathering momentum. In 2005, the Seafood Choices Alliance study, produced in partnership with Greenpeace, the Marine Conservation Society (MCS, see  below), WWF and North Sea Foundation, polled consumers, supermarkets, chefs and restaurateurs about their views on the issue. A massive 86 per cent of consumers said that they would prefer to buy seafood labelled as environmentally friendly, with a similar response from industry professionals. Also in America awareness is growing about the world’s dwindling fish supplies. There are no soothing words for FAO’s conclusion that 70 per cent of fisheries are being fished at or beyond their sustainable capacity. Moreover, the adverse effects of aquaculture have made the headlines of American newspapers. In this way more and more consumers become aware of the message from NGOs to abstain from so-called ‘red-listed’ varieties. They avoid types like salmon or merlin and select less vulnerable or ‘green-listed’ ones. Nevertheless, sustainable fish is currently a niche and often sold at a higher price. However, there are indications that the current niche will soon become mainstream. A signal is the growing number of food retailers that have recently taken steps to offer their clientele a green alternative in fish. Wal-Mart is one of them. The retailer giant threw its weight behind sustainable seafood in February. The company announced it would eventually stock its North American stores with wild-caught fresh and frozen fish from fisheries certified by the Marine Stewardship Council (MCS), the Britain-based organisation that addresses overfishing by setting standards for fisheries. However, at this moment MCS-certified fish is scarce. Illustrative is the fact that Unilever is facing difficulties to achieve its goals to source sustainable fish only. Reason for the low supply is that until now only small and closely managed fisheries are certified by the MSC. In order to meet future demand for sustainable fish, large fisheries also need to become involved in the certification procedure. Possibly Wal-Marts ambitions will speed up this decision. 

Sustainable league    British supermarkets are also tackling the issue of sourcing sustainable fish. Last March the Marine Conservation Society (MCS) published the latest ‘Sustainable Supermarket League Table’ (see box or for more details www.fishonline.org) as part of its continuing consumer awareness campaign. Waitrose and Marks & Spencer are placed jointly at the top. According to MCS, both companies are strongly committed to sustainability and have a reputation for only selling fish from responsibly managed fisheries. Tesco and Sainsbury’s are placed third and fourth, respectively. Of all British supermarkets M&S, Waitrose and Morrisons sell no fish at all from the MCS List of Fish to Avoid. Although UK food retailers are making progress, the MCS thinks there is still a lot to improve. One area is the labelling of fish products. Labels should provide consumers with more information about the seafood’s scientific name, specific area of origin, method of capture and, for example, carry an eco qualification.
Meeting these standards will not always be easy but disregarding them is certainly not in the benefit of food retailers. Especially when it comes to fish, choosing for sustainability is a smart business decision. If overfishing continues and aquaculture gets out of hand, the fishing departments with their attractive margins will one day be out of business. Therefore smart food retailers are now taking the lead towards a more sustainable seafood chain.

Consumers eat more fish
(consumption per capita - 1,000 tonnes)

US
1973: 3,400
2003: 6,200

Europe
1973: 6,800
2003: 10,000

Source: MCS Supermarket League Table 2007

Sustainable fish scores at UK’s supermarkets

1. Marks & Spencer, Waitrose
3. Tesco
4. Sainsbury’s
5. ASDA
6. Morrisons
7. Co-Op
8. Iceland

 Source: AquaVision Conference 2006
Published 03-12-2007 (15:31) by Dina Rimareva

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